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If you are climbing and taking climbing photos you’ll only ever get 1 of 2 outcomes… *Backsides or the tops of heads/helmets *Snapshots and self portraits (I love these by the way and you should definitely take same of these too!) Climbing and photographing are activities that don’t mix. I hate it, but you have to suck it down. It’s just how it is. If you’re trying to take better climbing shots you cannot be climbing at the same time.
There’s a practical side to this too which is that to try to do both you end up having to carry a huge amount of kit. More ropes, more protection, rigging gear and all your camera kit.
Pro’ photographer Ian Smith echoes this view in our interview. “Be prepared to work hard and be willing to give up some climbing time. It’s incredibly difficult to both climb and take photographs, so set aside days or half days when
you separate the activities and decide to be fully one or the other.”
Still want to improve your climbing photography? The good news is that you’ve already done the hard part. # 1: 是爬？还是拍？
如果你一边爬一边拍摄攀岩照片，那么你只能得到以下两种结果中的一种... *攀岩者的后背或头顶/头盔 *抓拍和自拍（顺便说一下，我挺喜欢这个，你也应该偶尔拍两张！） 攀岩和摄影是两项无法并行的活动。我痛恨这点，但是你必须要接受。事实就是如此。如果你想拍到不错的攀岩摄影作品，你就不 能一边摄影，一边爬线。还有个很现实的问题，如果你同一时间即想摄影又爬线，那么结果就是你要带上大量的装备。更多的绳子，更多
的保护点，更多的锁，以及你所有的摄影器材。
职业摄影师Ian Smith在接受我们的采访中也强调这个观点。“为辛勤工作而做足准备，为牺牲一点攀岩时间而心甘情愿，即要攀 岩又要拍照苦难将是超出想象的，所以当你将两者分开的时候，抽出几天或半天的时间，然后决定全情投入其中的某一项。”
还想继续提高你的攀岩摄影技巧吗？好消息是，你已经搞定这些技巧中最难的一个了。 # 2 : Know your camera controls inside-outKnow how to adjust your camera controls without having to think about it. This frees up your attention to focus on creating the image whilst reacting to the changing environment.
You should know how to change ISO quickly to compensate for the changing light, change aperture/shutter speed, metering mode etc. This also means you need to be aware of what your exposure metre is reading through the viewfinder. Practice
at home, practice in the garden. Don’t leave it till you’re hanging on a rope investing your day for one must-have
shot. This becomes increasingly important as you add complexity to your setups with fill-flash and remote flash.
Aim to be able to do all of the above and more without missing any of the action. I wouldn’t like to count the times I ’ve been caught out fiddling with camera buttons at the point when a climber takes an unexpected fall. Shooting on
‘auto’ means you have to worry less about settings, but in doing so you surrender artistic control of the image you
capture. For many cameras using ‘auto’ also means you can’t capture RAW files, only JPG, further reducing your
choices.
# 2 :自内而外地掌握相机的功能 要想都不想就知道如何调节相机的各项控制。这样就可以在拍摄环境变化的时候腾出你的注意力，将它全部集中在摄影创作上来。 你应该知道怎么才能迅速地调整ISO（感光度）以顺应光线的变化，如何调整光圈/快门速度，和测光模式等参数。这也同样意味着你需要
时刻从取景器中关注曝光表的变化。你可以在家里练习，在院子里练习，但就是不要等到被吊在绳子一整天，不得不拍的时候再练习。而
在你使用填充式闪光灯和遥控闪光灯之后，相机的设置也会变得复杂，自如控制就变得更为重要了。
要将能够完成上述设置的同时而不错过任何精彩动作为目标。我可不想回顾因为胡乱摆弄相机按键而错过攀岩者意外冲坠的次数。 虽然拍摄的时候选择“自动模式”就意味着你不需要担心上述设置，但是这样做就等同于你选择放弃了对画面的艺术创作。对很多照相机
而言，“自动模式”还意味着只能拍摄JPG格式的照片，而无法获得RAW格式的照片，这样就再次减少了你创作的可能性。
# 3 : Use the creative controls
If you’re shooting with an SLR or modern compact you have access to the cameras ‘creative controls’. Taking charge of the aperture and shutter speed gives you control over the depth of field of focus and the extent to which you freeze, or
blur, movement (ideally whilst maintaining a well exposed image).
If you’re aiming for a close-up of a climber’s chalked hand foreground while keeping their face stylishly blurred in the background then aperture is what you adjust.
Big aperture = shallow depth of field = low ‘f’ number = f2.8 Small aperture = large depth of field = high ‘f’ number = f22 If you want to emphasize the movement of a boulderer as they dyno for a hold then shutter speed is the answer. Experimentation is the best way forward, so review each image and adjust your settings until you get the look you want.
If you want to understand the relationship between aperture, shutter speed and ISO/film-speed (and it’s good that you do) then go Google.
# 3 通过对相机的控制进行创作
如果你使用单反相机（SLR）或现代的小型相机进行拍摄，那么你就可以通过对相机的控制来进行创作了。通过设置光圈和快门速 度，可以赋予你对聚焦景深的控制和获得凝固动作画面或模糊动作画面的效果（理想情况下，还要同时兼顾正确的曝光）。
比如，如果你要拍摄一张以攀岩者一只沾满镁粉的手为前景的照片，同时以模糊不清的面孔作为背景的照片时，你就需要调整光圈 。
大光圈=小景深=低光圈数值(f)=f2.8 小光圈=大景深=高光圈数值(f)=f22 再比如，你想要强调一位抱石者为抓点而做的动态动作，那么快门速度就是关键。实验是最好的办法，因此要对每张拍到的照片都 进行查看，然后再调整设置，直到获得你想要的效果。
如果你想搞清楚光圈、快门速度和ISO/胶片速度之间的关系（你最好清楚这些），那就去问度娘吧。 # 4 : Use continuous shooting mode
If your camera has it I suggest switching to ‘continuous shooting’ or ‘high speed’ shooting mode. It can be invaluable as the climber moves through a crux sequence, or if they peel off and take a whipper. Without it you’ll likely capture a frame just before or just after the one you wish you’d got. It’s a little bit of insurance. With it you may catch some images you’d not expected. Be wary though. You can massively increase the number of images you take (and thus process), so do use it wisely. You don’t want to spend hours editing and analyzing which of 10 indistinguishable images is the best. # 4 :使用连拍模式
如果你的相机有“连拍”或“高速快门”拍摄模式，我建议你将相机调整到这个模式。这个设置在攀岩者通过难点发生脱落或长距离冲坠的时候至关重要。如果没有这个设置，可能就只捕捉到了正想拍的那个画面之前或之后的那个镜头。这个设置可以起到一点保险作用，你也许会因此而获得意想不到的画面。 但这个设置也要小心使用。使用这个设置可能会使你的照片数量猛增，所以，要有选择地使用它。你不会想花费大把的时间来后期和分析，在10张长得几乎没有分别的照片中哪一张才最好的。 # 5 : Remove clutter from the scene If you do shoot downwards look hard at the background through the viewfinder. Presumably you want the climber or part of the climber to be the focus of the photo. Make sure there’s no unnecessary background clutter in the frame. It will distract attention away from your subject. The most common clutter comes form rucksacks, contents spread out across the ground – helmet, gear, bottles, tupperware, shoes, bright clothing. Even other people can be clutter and you can ask them to move away for a moment. It sounds so easy and avoidable, but it’s always surprising how easy it is to clutter the bottom of crag. Be especially mindful if there’s a group of you. Clutter reduces the impact of your shot so take the time to remove it from your composition. It’s so much quicker to remove it yourself now, (or ask the climbers to shift it so it’s out of frame), than it is to Photoshop it out later. It It gets worse if you’ve shot a sequence and need to use 3 different exposures from a sequence? Now you have to remove it 3 times! I promise that once you know it’s there you’ll kick yourself later, and every time you didn’t take a moment and move it. # 5 : 清除画面背景中的杂物
如果你是由上而下地进行拍摄，那就要从取景器中仔细看清背景。你可能是希望攀岩者或攀岩者的某一部分成为照片的焦点。这就要确认画面的背景没有不必要的冗余。这些冗余将会使观众分散注意力，而不是集中在画面主题上。 最普遍的杂物一般来自于背包和背包里散落满地的东西——头盔、装备、瓶子、塑料饭盒、鞋子、还有亮色的衣物等。尽管闲杂人等也是一种冗余，但你尽可以请他们走开。去除冗余听起来是那么简单，完全可以避免，但会惊奇地发现它就是那么容易地出现在端线路的下面。如果你们是一群人一起，就更要注意这一点了。 冗余会减少摄影作品的冲击力，所以应该花点时间把它从你的构图中去除出去。而在拍摄的时候去除这些冗余会比回去后通过后期去除它快很多（或者让攀岩者换个位置，这样杂物就不在画面中了）。那么如果你在拍一个动作的时候用的是包围曝光呢（用三种不同的曝光来拍一张照片）？那你就必须同时清除三次冗余！ 我敢保证，一旦你知道背景里有杂物，而每次你都没有花时间移走它，你稍后一定会恨死自己的。 # 6 : Styling matters
If you haven’t spotted it yet in the climbing mag’s you soon will. Red T-shtirts everywhere! There is a reason; they have great impact. Okay, so it’s not editorial law, but go with this for a minute. You’ve pre-visualized a moody atmospheric shot on the Grit’, and your chosen model has black Ron Hill’s and a black long-sleeved thermal top. There’s no contrast, and you’ve immediately lost your subject and thus any connection people might have had with the image. Think about the image you’re trying to create and why. It might make sense to discuss it ahead of time with the climbers. It might make sense to have a couple of spare tops with you to hand out. Strong colours generally work well and the contrast they provide adds perceived sharpness to the image. Experiment and see what you think works well. I agree that there’s a few too many red tee’s out there but I have hope. I’ve seen a lot of great images with textured beanies and muted woolen pullovers. I find them fondly old school and refreshing. The bottom line is that styling does matter. # 6 : 有设计，很重要
即便到现在你看攀岩杂志时还没有发现，那么你很快也会发现——到处都是红色的T恤衫！原因就是：红色的T恤衫非常富有冲击力。 好吧，这并不是一条编辑法则，但试想一下以下情况。预视一张在Grit拍摄的充满勇敢氛围的照片，你所拍摄的模特穿着黑色的RonHill和黑色的长袖保暖上衣。画面中没有一点对比，很快，你就看不见画面主体了，并因此使人们对这张照片可能产生的联想也消失了。 想想你想要创作的照片和为什么创作这些照片。提前和攀岩者进行沟通是有必要的。多预备几件上衣也是很有必要的。鲜艳的色彩通常效果都很不错，可以为画面增加观感上的清晰度。尝试找到你觉得最佳的方法。 我同意已经有了很多穿红色T恤攀岩的照片，但我仍有所期待。我曾看过很多不错的头带针织便帽和身穿柔和羊毛上衣的照片。我发现，它们有种怀旧范儿，令人耳目一新。而无论如何，底线就是，设计是很有必要。 # 7 : Get level with the climber If you’re after people shots, (faces, emotion, positions), then generally you need to be level with, or better still above and slightly to the side of the climber. You’ll be able to frame the climber’s face, their body position and a little of the route with some background context. Sometimes the only way to achieve this will be to rig an abseil, descend the rope and hang around. You may need to ascend the rope when you’re done, so think about what kit you need. (I only needed to learn that one once!). If you don’t know how to do this safely then have someone teach you. With that in mind don’t forget the easy options for these positions. Can you shoot from the top of the crag? Can you scramble up a nearby boulder or route? One thing I’ve noticed in these ‘above & side’ positions is that competent climbers spend a lot of time looking down at their feet! So be wary you don’t end up with up with lots of back-of-the-head shots. If the climber is wearing a helmet it may throw shadow over their eyes and face. # 7 :处于和攀岩者同一高度
如果你想拍人的话，（比如面部、感情、姿势），那么你大致需要位于和攀岩者在同一高度的侧面，或最好略微高于攀岩者的侧面。 这样你就可以拍到攀岩者的脸，攀岩者的体态，还能拍到一点路线和环境背景。 有时候，到达这一位置的唯一方法就是通过溜绳下降，然后挂在那里。你可能还需要在拍完照片后沿绳上升，所以你可以想想都需要哪些装备。如果你不知道如何安全地完成这些，那就找个人教你。 千万不要忘记，获得这些机位的最简单的方法。你是否可以从悬崖的顶端进行拍摄？你是否能够爬上邻近的大石头或小径？ 我还注意到一件事儿，在这些“顶端和旁边”的位置拍摄时，很多攀岩者都会经常低头看脚！所以要注意，别拍到一堆后脑勺的照片。如果攀岩者带着头盔，那在他的眼睛上和脸上还可能会投下阴影。 # 8 : Watch your composition Getting your composition right in camera is another huge effort-saver in post-processing, and can make the difference between a front-cover and frustration. - Horizons & Horizontals: Sloping horizons are easy to spot and don’t cut it for editorial work. Correcting them means cropping and losing pixels along with your composition. - Gravity & Verticals: Runners, rope and gear are big giveaways. There’s nothing funnier than quickdraws hanging at angle off a gear loop as if magnetically attracted to the rock. - Cropping: Beware framing too tightly on your scene. With mega-pixel cameras you can afford to crop a bit, but you can’t add missing pixels. I’ve fallen foul of this a few times and had images rejected from publication as a result. Magazines like space, and front-covers demand it. Think about what you are shooting for. - Know the rules: Understand the rule of thirds and other classics. Use them, and break them from time to time. - Remember to de-clutter! # 8 : 注意构图
正确的构图是另一个节省后期精力的方法，也是区分开照片是封面大片还是垃圾片的关键。 -地平线和水平线 倾斜的地平线很容易就被看出来，但后期照片的时候不要剪切。修正水平线就意味着对照片的剪裁和像素的损失。 -重力和垂线 快挂、绳子和装备都是暴露点。没有什么比挂在装备环上的快挂出现偏角更有意思的了，那就好象是被岩石给吸住了一样。 -剪裁 注意画面不要构图太满。如果你的像素是上兆的还可以剪切一点，但是一旦剪裁，你就不能再增加失掉的像素了。我就犯过几次这样的错误，导致照片被出版社退回了。杂志喜欢留白，封面需要留白。拍摄的时候要想想照片是为什么而拍。 -了解构图法则 明白什么是三分构图法和其他经典的构图法。使用构图法，并偶尔打破它。 -一定注意去除杂物！ # 9 : Be respectful and professional I believe this is fundamentally important, and can set you apart from everyone else wielding a camera at a crag. How you represent yourself is what your reputation is based on. Everything you do conveys a message about who you are and how you work. - Respect the climber:Don’t distract them, and be ready to help but only if requested. - Respect others:You won’t make friends by throwing your ab’ rope down a popular route just to get into position to shoot someone on the neighbouring line. - Check first:If you’re obviously about to take photos of a climber you don’t know, and it’s reasonable to do so, ask them if it’s ok. If they say no, or prefer you not to, then don’t take the picture. If you have taken photos of a climber then get their name so you can caption the shot and acknowledge them. Send them a copy. I think its a bit of a cheat when you see “Unknown climber on limestone classic” in a mag. You’re getting exposure from the published images, so make the effort to get the climber some too. In my experience climbers are generally happy to contribute. # 9 : 尊重和专业
我相信这是非常重要，非常基本的一条，它能将你与其他在悬崖上用相机拍照的人们区分开。你的信誉恰是建立在你如何表现自己之上的。你所做的每件事情都在传递一个信息：你是谁，你是如何做的。 尊重攀岩者：不要分散他们的注意力，准备提供帮助，但只在他们提出要求后再提供。 尊重其他人：不要为了找到个好的位置去拍摄旁边线路上的攀岩者而让朋友在一条非常受欢迎的路线上给你扔下来下降的绳索。 先寻求同意：如果你很明显地在给一位你不认识的攀岩者拍照，就有必要先征得他的同意。如果他说不行，或不喜欢你这么做，那你就不要再拍了。 如果你给一位攀岩者拍了照片，那就应该问一下他的名字，这样你就可以用来说明照片，并感谢他们。再给他们一份拷贝。 我想，如果你要是在杂志上看到了标题为“岩壁上的未名岩者”的照片会让你有点不爽吧。你已经因刊登出的照片而露脸了，那就应该也让攀岩者露个脸。我的经验告诉我，攀岩者都很乐意参与其中的。 # 10 : Review Review Review
If you are serious about improving then you need to be serious about reviewing and critiquing your work. How do the shots you took today compare to your favourite images from the pro’ climbing photographers? Pull out your best two climbing photos. Why do you call them your best? What ‘makes’ those pictures for you? When you’re editing your next shoot, pause before you hit the delete key on the rejects. Pick a couple. Why are you about to trash them? Why are they ‘bad’ photos? Pick a couple of the ‘keepers’ that didn’t get a top star rating. Why did they miss that star? What would need to be different/improved upon? It’s okay to be your own harshest critic. But be disciplined and allow yourself to experiment and fail. Know when to silence the inner critic completely or you’ll stifle your own creativity. Equally good is to have other people give you feedback. Obviously you should only invite constructive, well-intended criticism. The UKC photography forum is one place to look. In our exclusive interview with top UK climbing photographer Tim Glasby, he repeats the message, “Be honest with yourself about the quality of your work”. By inviting comment and self-review I learnt I often compose too tightly on the climber and missed out on other compositional elements and context. Once I was aware of this I put more effort into my compositions. Despite strong colourful elements in #10.1 I wish had got further out from the rock so we could see Al’s left arm and feet, and composed a wider shot to get a sense of the position’s height. Being higher than the climber would have helped out here. # 10 : 再三回顾
如果你很认真地想提高攀岩摄影的技术，那么你需要很认真地回顾和评判自己的作品。你今天所拍摄的片子和你最喜欢的专业摄影师拍的片子，比较起来如何？ 找出你最喜欢的两张攀岩照片。为什么这两张是你最喜欢的？是什么成就了这两张照片？ 当你准备后期下一张照片的时候，在按下删除键前，暂停一下。选择两张，为什么你要删除它们？为什么这些照片“不好”？ 再选两张不是最好但又可以“保留”下来的照片。为什么这两张不是最好的？想要提高/表现不同还需要做哪些事情？ 你大可以给自己恶评。但是要有章法，允许自己实验和犯错。知道什么时候只是心里有数就好，不然就扼杀自己的创造力。 还有一点也不错，那就是让其他人给你意见。很明显，你应该找一些善意的，有建设性的评论者。UKC摄影论坛就是这样的一个地方。 在我们对英国攀岩摄影师Tim Glasby的独家访问中，他反复强调这一点“要坦诚面对自己摄影作品的品质”。 在我们对英国攀岩摄影师Tim Glasby的独家访问中，他反复强调这一点“要坦诚面对自己摄影作品的品质”。 通过征求到的评语和自我回顾，我发现我拍的照片经常构图太满，以至于会失掉了一些构图元素和环境。自从我发现了这点，我就对自己的构图作出了一改变。尽管示例10.1中，色彩元素鲜艳，我还是觉得要是能再向外站一点就好了，这样我们就可以看到Al的左胳膊和脚了，还有就是构图应该再广一点，这样也可以表现出环境高度。站在比攀岩者高的地方有助于改善这个。 # 11 : Set yourself projects Improvement requires practice, and that requires motivation. Help yourself by keeping a list of ideas for shots, locations and angles. Look at the climbing media for inspiration. Recreate the shots you like or challenge yourself to find a new perspective on a classic image. I have a list of different projects that I keep dipping into. Additionally I always think I could improve on the images I already have so I’m always motivated to reshoot certain routes. # 11 : 设定属于自己的计划
提升攀岩摄影技能需要联系，更需要动力。为了一只激励自己，可以给自己列个清单，清单上写满拍摄的想法，想拍摄的地点和想拍摄的角度。 要看与攀岩相关的媒体寻找灵感。对你所喜爱的作品进行再创作，或者挑战你自己，找到一个新的视角去演绎经典的照片。我有一份清单，列出了不同的计划。这些计划都值得我一直研究。除此之外，我也经常想，我能将以往拍过的照片再进行提高进步，因此我也经常激励自己去重新拍摄一些特定的路线。 # 12 : Pre-visualise your shot Okay, this one’s a biggie. It touches on a number of other ideas here and is contrary to some. If you buy that there’s the ‘go and experiment’ approach, then this is the opposite, and it therefore requires more preparation. The essence of this is that you plan ahead of time, as much as possible, exactly the images you want to create. To do this you’ll need to draw upon your: - knowledge of the existing body of climbing photography out there - knowledge of routes, how they are climbed, their aspect and crux moves - creativity, to find new angles, positions and compositions - predetermined plan of what you want to shoot that day Expose yourself to the work of as many photographers as you can and look at their styles. Are you after documentary coverage of a meaningful ascent; abstract close-ups; wide landscapes showing the context of climbing; rock architecture; body positions; your own style? If you’re planning for a particular location or route then do some research. Which angles do you like? Which are most common? Can you find a new angle? The UKClimbing website is a good place to start your research. If you have a strong idea in mind you get the added benefit of minimizing the number of exposures you take and benefit from spending less time behind the computer! # 12 : 预视你的拍摄
这一项非常重要。它与很多文章中提到的技巧都有联系，又和另一些相反。如果你运用的是“去了就拍”的方法，那么这点与它恰恰相反，它要求更多的事前准备。 这点的本质就是尽可能地按照你想要拍摄到的具体照片做到事前筹划。为了做到这点，你需要筹划准备： - 现有的攀岩摄影团体 - 攀爬线路，线路需要如何攀爬，线路的各个方面和难点的通过 - 创造力，发现新角度，新体态和新的构图 - 事前决定拍摄当天的拍摄目标 尽可能多地让自己多接触不同攀岩摄影师的作品，摸索他们的风格。你是否正在拍摄一张具有特殊意义的纪录性报道；是抽象的特写；是要用广阔的风景表现攀岩的环境；是岩壁的造型；是攀爬的姿态；还是要拍出你自己的风格？ 如果你正在计划一条特定地点或特定路线的拍摄，那就要做一些调研。你最喜欢哪个角度？哪些是最常见的角度？你是否会发现新的角度？英国攀岩论坛（UKClimbing）是一个你入手调研的好地方。 如果你的头脑中有明确的拍摄想法，那你就能得到额外的收益，不需要按那么多次快门，也不需要在花费太多时间在后期处理上。 |
